J. Medernach, H. Kleinöder, & H. Lötzerich (2015): Vibration Training in Indoor Bouldering: Effects on Strength and Endurance.

Indoor bouldering (IB) consists of low height climbing sequences with grip strength and endurance as key factors. Limited research has been conducted on IB and less is known regarding the effectiveness of sport-specific training methods. Therefore, the aim of our study was to investigate the use of fingerboards in the presence (VB) and absence (FB) of vibration stimulation to increase grip strength (GS) and climbing time to exhaustion (CTE). According to the main findings of our study, four-week VB and FB regimen are highly effective in increasing GS. Both involve isolated grip positions, grasped without feet contacting the ground to ensure a high-intensity training stimulus to the point of muscle failure, making GS gains to occur in a relatively short period of time. In contrast, IB involves multiple grip sizes and shapes, so the isolation of single grip positions cannot occur to the same extent as with VB and FB. Moreover, mean gains of approximately 26s for CTE indicate that VB is highly effective in increasing grip endurance. The different findings between VB and FB may be explained by the additional vibration stimulus in VB, whereas the limited number of climbing moves may explain the insignificant findings in IB. The main advantages of VB and FB are (a) low space requirements, (b) easy access, (c) isolated training on a variety of grip positions, and (d) highly intensive training stimuli at individual ability level.

J. Medernach (2015): Ausdauer im Wettkampf-Bouldern: Conditio sine qua non oder nonsense?

Zielsetzung dieser Studie ist die Untersuchung der Bedeutung der lokalen Muskelausdauer (LOM) im Wettkampfbouldern. Aufgrund der Befunde kann die lokale Muskelausdauer im Wettkampfbouldern als eine Conditio sine qua non betrachtet werden. Zur Steigerung der LOM kann u.a. das Intervall Bouldern empfohlen werden, bei dem ein Boulder mehrmals wiederholt wird und zwischen den einzelnen Wiederholungen eine „lohnende“ Pausendauer stattfindet.